Flocons de Sel
Try not to nick a Maserati when you’re squeezing your car into the tiny parking lot! Welcome to the hiiiiiiigh mountain gastronomy of Emmanuel Renaut. The first level? A luminous dining room with lots of wood and windows, which is still standing after an avalanche of amuse-bouches – including the famous smoked milk beignets. After that warm-up, diners can attack the sudden and spectacular ascent of the €140 tasting menu: enormous morel mushrooms stuffed boudin-blanc-style plus two sauces – butternut and licorice for the first, herbs for the second; evanescent slices of raw fera, lightly salted and smoked; pike quenelles in a powerful onion, crayfish and common roach sauce; before an impressive platter of cheeses and the sublime eclipse of two disks of pork tenderloin served almost pink, with a coffee sabayon and an onion-truffle tartelette. And don’t forget about the signature tableau, a 2D dessert: a framed sabayon with chocolate flakes, acting as the base for texture and color play around a hazelnut theme. As for the wines, there are some great Savoie options, along with wines from other regions: Amphore, a Mondeuse from Belluard (€75), Les Fripons, a superb Chignin-Bergeron from Gilles Berlioz (€89) or a Persan Octavie from his cousin Adrien (€75). Menus €140 (lunch) and €270. // A.S.