Flocons de Sel
Once you’ve climbed up the Route du Leutaz, far from the throes of the world below, you’re powerless against the lunch menu’s rising prices (+€30 in one year…). Served quietly in a luminous paneled room with views of the woods, Emmanuel Renaut’s cuisine stuns the taste buds – and this as early as the amuse-bouches, including an always-fashionable smoked milk beignet. The day we went, the springtime menu featured the following: shaved mushrooms over smoked egg yolk, a moussey coffee cream and a tangy jelly; morel mushrooms cleverly stuffed with their own stems, in a wild garlic sauce with dried onions; roasted fera on a very thin slice of rye bread, a dense carrot and pine paste, and a moussey Arvine butter; a light roach fish quenelle with an onion and shellfish jus and an ambush of tapioca; very tender rounds of pigeon roasted over hay, served pink in their rich juniper jus, with a black trumpet mushroom mousseline, smoked new potatoes and an onion-truffle tartlet; and finally, after the imposing cheese platter, a monochromatic white circle reinterpreting an elderflower faisselle de Megève, trapped under a fine sugar shell. A true pinnacle of flavor! // A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? You can choose almost at random from the rich menu: a Vin-des-Allobroges white from the Domaine des Ardoisières (€14 a glass), a Chinin-Bergeron from the Domaine Pascal and Annick Quenard (€69), a Savoie red from Belluard (€70), or even a Fleurie from Métras (€75) or a Cornas from Barret (€145) for something a little further away.
PRICE: Tasting menus €170 (lunch) and €290.