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Francis Mallmann au Château La Coste

Francis Mallmann au Château La Coste (Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade)

Richard Haughton

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Got a sudden desire for braised meats? Head to billionaire Patrick McKillen’s Château La Coste, which brilliantly combines works by prodigious artists (Louise Bourgeois, Sophie Calle, Ai Weiwei), Luberon vines and a luxury hotel over 200 hectares of land. Francis Mallmann, the Argentine master of fire, declares his love of meat at one of the estate’s four restaurants. The night we went, we dined in the Adam’s Family-style dining room (black and white checkerboard tile floors, big wooden rafters, plates hanging on the wall): octopus with anchoiade, paired with potatoes from the Andes; a magnificent rib-eye steak smoked for 12 hours and served with smashed potatoes and an explosively flavorful chimichurri; before some overly sweet braised pineapple, saved by the smooth passion fruit ice cream. One piece of advice? A meat dish served à la carte should be enough (smoked suckling lamb, wild boar parmentier, half a roasted duck…), because the house also sets wallets ablaze. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are six cocktails at €15 each, like the nicely balanced Troisième Scandinave (vodka, cardamom, fresh ginger, lime and bergamot liqueur), plus wines from the estate (an elegant Grand Vin red at €8.50 a glass), along with other organic treats (a natural Chenin from Baudouin at €55 a bottle, a translucent Tuscan Syrah from Stefano Amerighi at €70).

PRICE: À la carte €71-184.

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