Fulgurances, en face
Camped out across from the Fulgurances motherhouse, Rebecca Asthalter, Sophie Cornibert and Hugo Hivernat’s small wine bar offers up a short selection of plates without borders, which you can nibble on at the blonde wooden bar or around the big communal table. For us, the night we went: creamy polenta with pan-fried ‘nduja, dressed with grapes and fresh herbs; crispy shredded beef gyoza placed atop a sweet potato cream with cilantro and hazelnuts; perfectly flash-seared cuttlefish surrounded by a sake jelly; a plump brioche bun with beef tongue, pickles and a silky rosemary-infused mayonnaise; before a gourmet fig tarte Tatin. // D.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? Living wines: a Loire Chenin from the Domaine Mélaric (€7 a glass), an Ardèche red from Andréa Calek (€8), a macerated Drôme white from Philippe and Alain Viret (€42 a bottle)…
PRICE: Plates €6-15.