And they’re back at it! After residencies from Chloé Charles, Tamir Nahmias, Rose Greene, Sam Miller, Céline Pham, Sebastian Myers, Peeter Pihel, Antoine Villard and Raphaël Calisto and Mariana Villegas (phew!), the little World Food consulate – ounded by the dazzling Sophie Cornibert, Hugo Hivernat and Rebecca Asthalter – has decided to provide culinary asylum to chef Alban Chanteloup (ex-Le Clos des Sens in Annecy and Le Neptune in Geneva). He had the immaculate space in a fulgu-trance the day we went for lunch, with well-traveled inspirations that really hit the bull’s eye. On the €25 menu: incredible scallop beards, plunged into a fennel jus seasoned with charred onions and a spicy oil; a divine fillet of mackerel flash-seared in vin jaune, topped with seaweed tartare and a miso condiment – even better with a buttery glass of Chardonnay from the Domaine Rougeot (€12); a gigantic cut of lamb shoulder cooked on the barbecue, tucked into a voluptuous skordalia– a purée of potatoes, tahini and almond paste; before an incredibly gourmet pear brunoise with siphoned yogurt and caramelized walnuts. And to warm up your hearts, there are some bio-dynamite wines: a piercing Melon-de-Bourgogne from the Domaine de la Pépière (€6 a glass), an explosive Gringet, Le Feu, from Belluard (€80 a bottle), not to mention the whole range of natural wines from Milan, Cossard, Valette, Viret… Menus €19-25 (lunch), €58 (dinner). // G.LeP.