Fulgurances, L’Entrepôt

Fulgurances, L’Entrepôt (Paris)

© Agathe Hernandez

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A good film followed by a good meal with friends. That’s Rebecca Asthalter, Sophie Cornibert and Hugo Hivernat’s new motto, now that the trio have taken over the restaurant at L’Entrepôt, the legendary cinema and concert hall in the 14th arrondissement. They transformed the huge, glass-ceilinged space into a backdrop worthy of a Hollywood set: rugs on the floor, old Chesterfield armchairs, paper lanterns, banquettes and bouquets of flowers on the tables. And there are two dazzling stars in the kitchen! At lunch? Valentine Guenin (ex-Table du Recho) stitches together a stunning menu: magical sautéed pigeon hearts served with labneh and za’atar; crispy free-range chicken with homemade pappardelle in a browned butter sauce; before a revisited fontainebleau combining stewed rhubarb and a rhubarb syrup granita. And at night, Minou Sabahi (ex-Café du Coin) orchestrates some outstanding small plates: baba ganoush; sardines stuffed with pistachios; mullet crudo with cherries and sea beans… // A.H.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a selection of impressive bottles that are sure to knock your socks off: a red from Théophile Milan in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (€6 a glass), a Muscadet from the Domaine de l’Ecu (€30 a bottle), a Touraine red from Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf (€55), a Var white from Jean-Christophe Comor (€59)…

PRICE: Set menus €19-24 (lunch), plates €6-12 (dinner).

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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