Gare au Gorille
Listen up ladies! Behind a white tiled façade just north of Saint-Lazare, two Septime escapees roar: Marc Cordonnier, who we’ve also seen at L’Arpège, and Louis Langevin, a naturalist sommelier. The pitch? Décor that’s as good as gold (wood, metal light fixtures) that really highlights the ferocious plates. A demonstration the day we went for lunch, on the €29 menu: a bewitching start to the meal with raw mackerel, asparagus, brocciu, chickweed, grapes and cream of spinach; perfectly prepared cod grilled skin-side down on the plancha, plus red lentils and faisselle cheese with mint and cilantro – or incredibly tender pork ribs, tenderized overnight sous vide before being caramelized, and served with roasted pointy cabbage and new potatoes; then, for the autumnal finale, a roasted apple with an intriguing toast-flavored ice cream. At night, small plates are served à la carte (squid-sausage-sorrel; lamb crackling-leeks-lentil hummus, €12 each), alongside cuts of meat from the market meant to be shared – monkfish tail with lardo di Colonnata (€32), veal sweetbreads (€46), etc. In the glasses? Lots of natural options: Rond Noir, a Languedoc red from Olivier Cohen (€6 a glass), Poema, a Serbian Riesling from Bongiraud (€8), a Pouilly-Fuissé from the Domaine Valette (€75 a bottle), an Anjou red from Nicolas Reau (€57), etc. Menus €29-39 (lunch), à la carte €35-50 (dinner). // A.M.-D.