Gare au Gorille

Gare au Gorille (Paris)

© Yves Nespoulous

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Marc Cordonnier (ex-Arpège and Ze Kitchen Galerie) has been pampering the Batignolles neighborhood for the past five years! The chef sends out some outstanding creations from the kitchen of this stylish bistro (timeworn wooden tables, a while tile credenza, hanging light bulbs) which he opened with Louis Langevin (a sommelier who used to work at Le Meurice). For us, the other night: an excellent tomato gazpacho concealing a few pieces of mackerel and feta; firm coco de Paimpol beans and mussels, with flashes of a druidic tomato vinaigrette; an ultra-tender monkfish tail (for two) intensified by a meaty jus de viande; before an incredible sbrisolona (Lombardic shortbread) with roasted figs and a fig leaf ice cream. Another good option is the prix-fixe lunch menu, which might include something like zucchini soup with faisselle cheese and haddock; slow-roasted lamb with coco de Paimpol beans and orache; plus granola and damson plums for dessert. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? Louis keeps an eye on the wine collection that’s well-stocked with natural options: a Loire white from Benoit Courault (€11 a glass), a Tavel from Eric Pfifferling (€46 a bottle), De Toute Beauté, a Jura red from Jean-François Ganevat (€65)… and even a Puligny-Montrachet from Frédéric Cossard (€210).

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