Le Guide Fooding’s Best Cave à Manger of 2016
Getting one of the 20 coveted seats at Garopapilles, which is located at the back of a wine shop between the bar and the patio, is no easy task… And for good reason, because Tanguy Laviale, the former sous-chef of some illustrious Parisian institutions (Lasserre, Ledoyen) sends out treat after treat from his open kitchen into the luminous dining room (Baumann chairs, striped oak tables). The day we went for lunch, the €60 menu featured: an exciting amuse-bouche quartet (mini ravioli stuffed pissaladière-style, cauliflower beignets with sherry-infused crème fraiche, sea lettuce tempura, and a hazelnut crumble over a sweet potato and foie gras emulsion); smoked John Dory carpaccio with peas and sea purslane leaves; mackerel marinated in vinegar, plus a carrot and ginger purée; pearly-white red mullet with sauce poulette; a tender steak with a velvet crab sauce, clams, black olives and asparagus; before an insane choco combo (mousse, sauce, crisp shavings) refreshed by verbena ice cream and a sprinkling of caramelized pecans. // M.F.
FEELING THIRSTY? Syrielle Palacios (ex-Dan and Experimental Group) concocted an impressive wine list from local and not-so-local winemakers: a Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits white from Michel Noëllat (€8 a glass); a biodynamic Cuvée Paul Pessac-Léognan red from the Château Au-Bergey (€7); a Bouzeron Aligoté from the Domaine de Villaine (€55 a bottle); a Faugères from the Domaine Léon Barral (€90); and a Margaux Château du Tertre 2006 (€100)…
PRICE: Menus €39-60 (lunch) and €90 (dinner).