Le Guide Fooding’s Best Cave à Manger of 2016
These two friends have copied no one for their wonderful neo-bistro invention. Tanguy Laviale (ex-Château Haut-Bailly) puts a cool new twist on haute gravy boat traditions, while Gaël Morand, a defrocked diplomat, has traded in the white button-downs of yesteryear for hand-selected green bottles. Their playground? An old toy store that’s been transformed into a garden patio restaurant, with a lofty white dining room, oak tables and Baumann chairs. During the month of April, the luminous four-course menu (lunch, €45) held plenty of surprises: stunning grilled red mullet fillets with foie gras, pearl barley and a sunny orange-carrot emulsion; flash-seared Venusian scallops with lemongrass, an artichoke-sardine cream and pickled shimeji mushrooms; veal rump and razor clams for a surf ’n’ turf dish, paired with crisp asparagus fricassee in a full-bodied jus and squid ink gnocchi; before an oxymoronic black charcoal religieuse with white chocolate center, served with slices of roasted grapefruit, grapefruit confit and rhubarb ice cream. To tickle your taste buds, there’s a model wine collection, which includes: Tempête, a Bergerac red from the Château Lestignac (€8 a glass); a Mâcon-Vergisson from the Domaine Saumaize-Michelin (€38 a bottle); and a Chambolle-Musigny from the Domaine Arlaud (€79). Menus €35-60 (lunch), €90 (dinner). // M.J.-D.