You’ll have to be pretty clever to get seated at one of the scarce tables at this restaurant – one of the hottest in town. Although the concept has had a facelift (more options at dinner, an enriched wine selection of 800 labels), it still hits it out of the park every time. After a few stints in some honorable Parisian establishments (Lasserre, Ledoyen), Tanguy Laviale now sends out stunning dishes based around high-voltage ingredients (wild fish from the Saint-Jean-de-Luz fish market, very local meats…). The day we went for lunch, sampled on the four-course menu: superb line-caught bass, marinated and served with grilled leeks topped with a moussey orange sauce; an elegant combo of blue lobster and plump peach slices in a black tea sauce that had us practically licking our plate clean; inky gnocchi with shiitake mushrooms, manchego and sea beans; before a syrupy Patakao fig with chocolate, hazelnuts and lemon – or sheep’s milk yogurt with pickled fermented rhubarb and sorrel. // A.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? His nephew, Tom Faucoeur, is in charge of the beautiful bottles: La Bégou, a Corbières white from Maxime Magnon (€13 a glass), Tempête, a red from the Château Lestignac in Dordogne (€10), Argile, a Vin-de-Allobroges white from the Domaine des Ardoisières (€40 a bottle) or a 2007 Saint-Émilion from the Château Figeac to break the piggybank.
PRICE: Menus €40-80 (lunch) and €65-95 (dinner).