Inside this former downtown butcher’s shop, sommelier Dimitri Remi hasn’t sold off all the vestiges of its former life: the butcher’s block is now used as a cutting board for bread, the cold room is used as a wine cellar, and the meat hooks now hold plants…. All that’s missing is the meat, which is sourced from Cantini Flandin (Marseille) these days, before being prepared by chef Jeanne Rutten (the former sous-chef for Régis Marcon). The other day at lunch, on the €33 menu: a chilled yellow pepper and pineapple tomato soup with long slices of dried ox, croutons, cubes of feta and piment d’Espelette; a hyperactive pastilla (filo dough filled with lamb, honey, dried fruit, cumin and mustard shoots) over a bed of chickpeas, green beans, carrots and broccoli; before a Paris-Brest topped with cacao and powdered sugar. To drink, head over to the cold room and grab a biodynamic Costières-de-Nîmes from the Château Mourgues du Grès (€5 a glass), Lapierre’s famous Morgon (€42 a bottle), or Dolia, a white from the Domaine Hauvette in Provence (€68). Menu €33, à la carte €40-43. // A.S.