The incredible views of the Eiffel Tower would have sufficed. But for their umpteenth fashionable joint project, Gilles Malafosse and Laurent de Gourcuff (Loulou, Monsieur Bleu, Perruche) really gave it their all! For the décor, the brilliant Joseph Dirand went for an extravagant eyeful: a single block of marble for the bar, Art Deco light fixtures, beige tones, nubuck leather benches… Meanwhile, in the kitchen, you’ll find Benoît Dargère (a former Passard apprentice) cooking up delicate cuisine that has been exposed to a sea breeze. The proof the day we went for lunch: an exciting sea bream ceviche with coconut milk and lime, sprinkled with crunchy passion fruit seeds (€22); perfectly roasted octopus with an aioli flavor bomb and summer vegetables (€35) – unless you’d rather have the gambero rosso sautéed with garlic (€25), or cod accras with a spicy dipping sauce (€18); before an excellent red berry pavlova. To wash it all down, there’s a host of worldly drinks: a Girafe cocktail combining Lillet rosé, Bénédictine, Champagne and orange blossom (€17), Minuty rosé (€9 a glass), Crozes-Hermitage from the Domaine Combier (€12) or a magnum of Perrier-Jouët (€235). Shellfish platters €55-250, caviar €280 for 100 grams, à la carte €57-85. // J.S.