Attached to the Cirque d’Hiver, the boozy bistro at 108 rue Amelot is taking another lap around the ring! Though the décor hasn’t changed (timeworn brick walls, hanging light bulbs, minimalist décor), the wine menu has been given a serious kick in the grapes. Pasdeloup and its cocktails are no more – make room for Goguette and its supernatural wines chosen by Guillaume Dupré (Coinstot Vino, Paris 2e). They get dealt out in all their various forms: by the glass – €6 for a red from Olivier Cohen; wholesale – €25 for a liter of Viognier from Gérald Oustric; or by the bottle – €29 for a Gamay from Thomas Vincent, €38 for a sparkler from Abruzzo produced by Nicolas Reginaldi… As for the grub, the ingenious Gianmarco Gorni (ex-David Toutain) stitches together some joyful small plates: a bowl of clams and merguez sausage with mint and a surf-n-turf broth (€14); flame-charred leeks dressed in a vinaigrette and sprinkled with cubes of haddock (€12); cheeky pork terrine with cucumbers, cauliflower and pickled mustard seeds (€11); beautiful roasted duck that melts in your mouth, and sautéed chanterelle mushrooms with an Asian twist and jus (€25); before mascarpone topped with a sage crumble (€9). Set menu €18-23 (weekday lunch). À la carte €18-47.