The center of gravity at this nocturnal den? The snaking waxed concrete bar which sits under a ceiling decorated with wavy strips of wood, where you can sip on a dozen creative cocktails (€12), like the invigoratingly bitter “Quand c’est trop, c’est trop…Picon” (homemade grenadine, lime juice, gentiane, Picon, Maurin quina and seltzer water), or the intense “Strong But Crack” (Aperol, Lustau sherry, orange syrup, horseradish and lemon)… Meanwhile, the wines are just as delightful: Pinot gris from Alsace (Simonis) or Grololo Angevin from Pithon-Paillé (€30 and €27 a bottle). In order to sponge up these libations, there’s rapid-fire hot and cold plates, served with divine homemade semolina bread: bright skate rillettes with sweet mayo; flavorful flash-seared cuttlefish with artichokes, a cod roe cream with piment d’Espelette and pickled onions; before a dark chocolate ganache with Amarena cherries and cacao crumble. Wines by the glass €6. Plates €8-15. // G.D.