Guilo Guilo

The discreet Guilo Guilo has become a mainstay of the 18th arrondissement over the past 12 years. Five nights a week, a handful of lucky devils are treated to the meticulous show put on by star Japanese chef Eiichi Edakuni from around the big black lacquered bar. The night we went, the eight courses included: a stunning corn cream with spiced masago (capelin roe) and edamame tofu; buttery palourde clam and okra soup; malicious fried surimi stuffed with mushrooms; a tantalizing mini sandwich made on Japanese white bread, filled with stewed red kuri squash and breaded eel; sashimi and maki (tender tuna, sea bream, plump scallops and a wasabi-esque leek-sesame sauce); pearly white bass grilled with koji (a Japanese ferment) and a thick, almost sticky broth – it’s the chef’s secret recipe; a less memorable wagyu beef tataki with sushi rice, freshly grated wasabi and lumpfish roe; before some cute matcha & azuki bean mochis served with an electric yuzu sorbet. // M.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Umeshu (a plum liqueur), Japanese sakes (Shuwa bijoufu at €12 a glass or Hina junmai at €15) and French wines – a Sancerre white from Henri Bourgeois (€9 a glass) a Saint-Émillion from the Château de la Fleur-Pourret (€9.50), Les Champs Martin, a 2013 Mercurey blanc 1er cru from the Domaine Lorenzon (€81)…

PRICE: Tasting menu €55 (eight courses).