Le Fooding Guide’s 2009 Japanese new wave award
We’ve heard everything there is to hear about Guilo Guilo… But we’ve got to admit, star chef Eiichi Edakuni (who travels from Hawaii and Kyoto every other month to add some spice to his Parisian bar) still drives us goo-goo-ga-ga with his Kaiseki menu (€55). It’s served at precise times (7pm and 9pm) and the dozen or so mouthful-sized plates are presented on carefully chosen red and black tableware. The night we went, the tender fatty tuna, smoked over hay and moistened with a beetroot sauce, brought tears to our eyes. Slightly less overwhelming, the other creations were still a delight: corn tempura served under sea urchin and nori; subtle grilled eel dashi with eggplant, Japanese peppers and an umeboshi omelet; duck prepared two ways, rice with octopus and edamame…. To help it all slide down, skip the anonymous wines and opt instead for an excellent Junmai Bijofu sake (€64 for 720 ml), a Kanehachi shochu (€9 a glass), or even a Kirin beer (€5). Menu €55 (changes every month). // A.M.-D.