Le Fooding Guide’s 2007 best spot to see and be seen
When it opened in 2006, it was like a civilized slap to the face. These days, the Hôtel Amour and its devilishly Pigallian soul is handling its transition into adolescence well (Moleskin benches, frilly light fixtures, a jungle-like garden and photos of women respectfully up to no good). On the menu, the simple cuisine is a cross between hotel restaurant and unfussy French fare (croque monsieur sandwiches, Caesar salads, lentil salads, roasted chicken, ribeye steak), enjoyed by the neighborhood’s good-looking crowd. For us, the day we went for lunch: a gigantic salad with baked goat cheese (€14) and a respectable veal kefta with more than honorable homemade fries (€17). For dessert, there was a gianduja ganache with vanilla whipped cream, or a mango and passion fruit blancmange (€8 each). To drink, in addition to the good wines (Mâcon-Cruzille from Guillot for €64 a bottle, Lirac from Eric Pfifferling for €42), there are cocktails (€12-13) and local beers – Deck & Donohue from Montreuil (€7 for 330 ml). Set menu €18 (lunch), brunch €21 (Saturday and Sunday; €12.50 for kids). À la carte €34-48. // G.D.