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  2. Région Île-de-France
  3. Paris (75)
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  5. Paris (75002)

Hôtel des Grands Boulevards

Restaurant Hôtel des Grands Boulevards in ParisHôtel des Grands Boulevards (Paris) - © Karel Balas

“Giovaaaannni!” This Fellinian cry coming from underneath the glass canopy has all Parisian foodies rushing over to the huge interior courtyard of the Hôtel des Grands Boulevards, the latest creation from the Experimental Group (BalaganBachaumont). But FYI, this isn’t just any old Giovanni! We’re talking about the only one capable of lighting up appetites on boulevard Poissonnière: the great Passerini! The day we went, he was putting the final touches to the menu in the open kitchen of this insane spot all done up with raw materials, red terra cotta and faded blue tiling, designed by Dorothée Meilichzon. It all gets executed by the young chef Sho Ashizawa (ex-Richer) at both lunch and dinner. On the lunch menu (€27): a perfect little steak tartare with a crunchy hazelnut mayonnaise and smoked ricotta; incredible barley risotto with watercress and blue cheese, served with delicate parsnip fries; and for the smooth finale, a delightful chocolate mousse with milk ice cream, coffee espuma and caramelized pecans. At night, in addition to the lamb ragout gnocchi (€21) and the teriyaki monkfish (on the menu to satisfy the hotel’s international clientele, undoubtedly, €28), there are two shared plates, like the leg of lamb with panisse, radicchio and walnuts (€68) or the Mesquer pigeon with a fennel gratin (€52). And to drink, there’s a meticulously chosen and globetrotting selection: Faugères Château de la Liquière Cistus (€9 a glass), Touriga Nacional from Quinta do Passadouro (€15), Riesling from the Ostertag estate (€41 a bottle), and a Tuscan Fattoria la Massa (€49). Set lunch menu €24-27. // Sophie Lecerf 

Getting there

Restaurant Hôtel des Grands Boulevards
17, boulevard Poissonnière
TEL: +33 1 85 73 33 33
Subway: Grands Boulevards