Hôtel des Grands Boulevards
On the ground floor of a 19th-century hôtel particulier that’s been converted into a less particular 21st-century hotel by the Experimental group (Balagan, Grand Pigalle Hôtel, Experimental Cocktail Club…), Giovanni Passerini, of the restaurant of the same name, has given a kick of his native Boot to the local fashion victims. After designing the menu at the restaurant (decked out with a big patio under a glass ceiling, communal tables and an open kitchen to watch the show), Le Guide Fooding’s Best Chef of 2017 now runs it remotely from his motherhouse in the 12th arrondissement. Expect simple plates sent out by a kitchen brigade that’s almost as stylish as the clientele. The other night: a tasty hand-cut steak tartare with smoked eel and tamarind sauce; grilled octopus with quartered heirloom tomatoes and a spicy mayo that was a tad watery; before a beautiful dacquoise with roasted apricots and orange blossom ice cream! Seen on the next table over: linguine with zucchini and spring onions, plus some beautiful cuts of meat to share, like roasted lamb with smoked carrots and faisselle cheese; and veal chop Milanese with Roman-style artichokes, etc. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a plethoric wine list bringing together Bordeaux’s great vintages (a Côtes-de-Castillon from Le Clos Puy Arnaud at €72 a bottle), natural bottles (La Louvetrie, a Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine from Jo Landron that’s as taut as a crossbow, €28) and no fewer than 30 wines served by the glass.
PRICE: À la carte €43-86.