Hôtel des Grands Boulevards
On the ground floor of a 19th-century hôtel particulier that’s been converted into a little less particular 21st-century hotel by the Experimental group (Balagan, Grand Pigalle Hôtel, Experimental Cocktail Club…), Giovanni Passerini has given a kick of his native Boot to the local fashion victims. After designing the menu at the restaurant (decked out with a big patio under a glass ceiling, communal tables and an open kitchen to watch the show), the talented Roman chef now runs it remotely from his motherhouse in the 12th arrondissement. Expect good, simple plates sent out by a kitchen brigade that’s almost as stylish as the clientele. The other night: an outstanding Italian charcuterie board served with toasted focaccia that’ll have you considering kidnapping the chef for more; excellent Albacore tuna mi-cuit with roasted beets and beet purée, in addition to piquillo peppers with basil and beet greens; before a St-Germain savarin with greengage plums and cardamom ice cream – outstanding!
FEELING THIRSTY? There are balanced cocktails (eg.: an Old Cuban combining Havana Club rum, lime juice, fresh mint, ginger cordial, simple syrup and Champagne – €16) and a plethoric wine list: a Greek white from Gentilini (€11 a glass), a Muscadet from Jo Landron (€28 a bottle), a Côtes-de-Castillon from Le Clos Puy Arnaud (€72)…
PRICE: Set menus €23-27 (lunch), à la carte €44-61. Brunch €36 (Sunday).