Restaurant Hôtel Voltaire

Tucked away on a typically Arlesian square, Hôtel Voltaire gives off a modernist Palm Springs vibe with its white and ochre concrete façade that’s been freshly spruced up by architect Eloïse Bosredon and the Bazar.cie collective (Simone et Paulette). On the ground floor, the cool restaurant – terrazzo tables, Tomado shelves and retro foosball – welcomes insiders and outsiders alike who have been enticed by the sunny Levantine menu crafted by Tamir Nahmias (ex-Frenchie and Fulgurances) and Or Michaeli (Milgo & Milbar in Tel Aviv). The day we went for lunch, the duo was setting the terrace ablaze with a perfect €18 set menu: extra tender sweet potatoes grilled on the BBQ, with homemade labneh – or crisp lettuce sprinkled with grated ricotta and savory granola; delicious lamb and pineapple skewers served with sautéed potatoes – or guinea fowl marinated in yogurt accompanied by spelt risotto. For an extra €4, don’t forget to conclude the meal with a chocolate mousse with a gooey halva center and chilled orgeat milk cream. // A.H.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a carefully chosen selection from Caroline Loiseleux (La Mercerie in Marseille): a fantastic Sicilian Ciello Bianco from Les Cantine Rallo (€4 a glass), a red Luberon, Tout Feu Tout Femme, produced by Laura Aillaud (€23 a bottle) or a local Arles beer, BAA (€3.50 for a half-pint).

PRICE: Set menu €18 (lunch), dessert €4 (lunch). À la carte €20-36 (dinner).