After stints in the US and the Vendée (Les Genêts), Xavier Rambaud has settled down on an intimate little street in Nantes, in a space with massive stone walls, a riveted bar and quirky light fixtures. Brought out lickety-split the day we went for lunch: crispy breaded chicken with coriander, mozzarella and red cabbage; fresh meagre with cumin, yuzu and daikon radish, plus a few mussels in a coconut-redcurrant emulsion; before a reinvigorating apple compote deglazed in whiskey, plus lime sorbet under a thick cloud of fromage blanc.
FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from here (Montlouis-sur-Loire from the Domaine Les Pierres Ecrites at €6 a glass, a Muscadet from the Domaine de la Chauvinière at €31 a bottle) and elsewhere (a Côtes-du-Roussillon red from Le Mas Christine at €32).
PRICE: Menus €18-24 (lunch), €38 to €55 (dinner).