Ici (Nantes)

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When Xavier Rambaud (ex-Les Genêts) needs to procure provisions for his bistro (stone walls, a riveted bar, Edison lightbulbs), he doesn’t look very far: fish from the market in La Turballe, locally grown vegetables… The other day at lunch, his small prix-fixe menu was a huge success: a delicious skate terrine with a variety of tomatoes (slow-roasted, sun-dried, etc.); whiting fillet preparedly exceptionally well, enveloped in a delightful cardamom emulsion, with celery brunoise and purée – or a medium-rare duck breast fillet with shimeji mushrooms, firm coco de Paimpol beans and a magic tonka bean sauce. All that, before fresh mirabelle plums with nutmeg and pain de Gênes, a promising dessert that we didn’t have time to taste, unfortunately, after spending an hour and a half just on the appetizer and main course… A shame! It’s worth noting that the chef also serves four- or six-course menus at night that are no laughing matter:veal and kimchi ravioli; steak and haddock; apple, maple syrup and olives… // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from here (a Pinot noir from Les Vignobles Mourat at €6.50 a glass, a Riesling from the Couillaud brothers at €27 a bottle) and elsewhere – a Languedoc white from La Chouette du Chai (€40), a Burgundy red from Chantal Lescure (€59)…

PRICE: Menus €18-24 (lunch), €38, €45 and €55 (dinner).

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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