restaurant

Ici

Ici (Nantes)

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When Xavier Rambaud (ex-Les Genêts) needs to procure provisions for his bistro (stone walls, a riveted bar, Edison lightbulbs), he doesn’t look very far: fish from the market in La Turballe, locally grown vegetables… The other day at lunch, his small prix-fixe menu was a huge success: a delicious skate terrine with a variety of tomatoes (slow-roasted, sun-dried, etc.); whiting fillet preparedly exceptionally well, enveloped in a delightful cardamom emulsion, with celery brunoise and purée – or a medium-rare duck breast fillet with shimeji mushrooms, firm coco de Paimpol beans and a magic tonka bean sauce. All that, before fresh mirabelle plums with nutmeg and pain de Gênes, a promising dessert that we didn’t have time to taste, unfortunately, after spending an hour and a half just on the appetizer and main course… A shame! It’s worth noting that the chef also serves four- or six-course menus at night that are no laughing matter:veal and kimchi ravioli; steak and haddock; apple, maple syrup and olives… // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from here (a Pinot noir from Les Vignobles Mourat at €6.50 a glass, a Riesling from the Couillaud brothers at €27 a bottle) and elsewhere – a Languedoc white from La Chouette du Chai (€40), a Burgundy red from Chantal Lescure (€59)…

PRICE: Menus €18-24 (lunch), €38, €45 and €55 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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