Il Capriolo

Il Capriolo (Marseille)

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Two years after opening, Jérôme Benoît’s (alias Jéjé Barbu) Italian bistro is still looking good: straw-bottomed chairs, a long bar behind which you’ll find the owner standing in front of a fresco of the Last Supper…. And localist small plates from the boss of Chez Mémé (across the street), which are just as cheeky as ever! For us, the other night: some tasty palourde clams paired with mortadella and green zebra tomatoes; impressive zucchini blossom beignets with an anchovy mayonnaise for dipping; steak tartare with grilled sea beans and garlic, sun-dried cherry tomatoes and a showering of grated pecorino; barely seared tuna over an incredible bed of artichoke cream with toasted pine nuts; before a perfect tiramisu, surfing on a rich chocolate coulis… The cherry atop the tiramisu? Jéjé opened up a fine food’s shop called Gina Rosa at 85 boulevard Longchamp – expect Italian eats galore. // A.H.

FEELING THIRSTY? A small selection of transalpine wines: a Sardinian white from La Cantina Giba (€4 a glass), a Tridentine pet’ nat’ rosé from La Cantina Furlani, a Calabrian red, Chora Rosso (€27 for each bottle…)

PRICE: Small plates €9-17, desserts €5-7.

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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