Warning: this establishment was tested before the reign of Covid 19… Certain information may no longer be up to date in regards to the current situation: hours, menu, prices…
Under the impressive white wooden waves that undulate across the ceiling, chef Gaby Didonna (who also runs Ani and Oto Oto) sends out good vibes with her vibrant fusion cuisine. The night we went, the stirring small Imouto (“little sister” in Japanese) tasting menu featured: an explosively flavorful lemony broth with white asparagus, artichokes, chili brunoise and grated pecorino; sublime meagre fillet pan-fried with light green asparagus, frisky shellfish, roasted garlic purée, cream of haddock with squid ink and a dashi espuma; before an incredible yuzu cream with lemongrass mousse, nashi pear infused with vanilla, preserved Buddha’s hand and Greek yogurt with bergamot zest. Other highlights: the five-spice butter and delicious homemade bread. And there’s the lunch menu too, which might feature something like fish sashimi with honey balls tinged with a tang of yuzu, free-range chicken with polenta and a Nikka whiskey jus, dark chocolate mousse and peaches. // G.V.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s an organic-centric wine list: Les Contours de Merlant, a Rhone white from Francois Villard (€6.50 a glass), a white Crozes-Hermitage from the Domaine du Murinais (€46 a bottle), a Morgon Côte-du-Py from Jean-Paul Brun (€54)… And to end the meal: a lightly caramelized, smoky malt Nikka Coffey Grain whiskey (€14).
PRICE: Menus €25 (weekday lunch), €41 (lunch and dinner) and €80 (dinner).