While you’re more likely to cross paths with Gaby Didonna in the kitchens of her new restaurant Ani, this spot in Guillotière still has all of our affection. Why? It’s only a stone’s throw from Lyon’s Chinatown, plus there’s a whalebone-plate-style ceiling designed by Xavier Vigne, there’s Pascal Polturat’s charming hospitality and also the wandering flavors of the well-practiced lunch menu. The other day at lunch (€41): extra crispy panko-breaded cod brandade croquettes; incredible flash-seared scorpionfish fillet that had been lightly smoked over cherry pits, paired with a delicate black garlic purée, quartered apple and cauliflower; then a fruit soup intensified by Thai basil, with thin slices of melon, watermelon balls, apple cubes and kumquat juice. At night, the “surprise” menu makes an appearance: lobster gyoza, dry-aged beef with a jus de viande infused with Nikka whiskey, a vanilla tartelette and coffee panna cotta. And to drink, don’t skip the sakes, including the unpasteurized Ryujin junmai daiginjo namazume or the lighter and organic Chikurin Karoyaka junmai ginjo (€7 a glass). And for those with allergies: a white Vacqueyras from La Ligière (€8 a glass), a red Faugères from the Domaine Saint Antonin (€6.50), a Saint-Véran Vieilles Vignes from the Domaine de la Feuillarde (€36 a bottle), a Saint-Joseph red from Guy Farge (€53). Menus €25 (weekday lunch), €41 (lunch and dinner) and €80 (dinner). // A.S.