Jeu de Quilles

We remember Patrice Ponsolle from back at Le Rince-Cochon in Limogne-en-Quercy. And we’ve rediscovered him again, just as bearded and rough-around-the-edges as ever, in the land of Pompidou and Sagan, at this mishmash of a bistro (orange faux leather benches, old mirrors, deer antlers and a fish head on the walls…). It’s a genuine playground where you can wash down the very locavore pantry with organic wines. The day we went for lunch, to go with the last asparagus of the season, steamed and served with an œuf parfait, cream of lardo di Colonnata and slices of Iberian ham (€8), Pat popped open an aromatic white Blaye-Côtes-de-Bordeaux from the Château La Haie (€4 a glass); and for the remarkable plancha-grilled meagre fillet, fresh sea beans, sea urchin, chanterelles from Cajarc and new potatoes from the Île de Ré (€18), a Mauzac from the Domaine Plageoles (€4.50 a glass). Other dishes that deserve wine pairings: Iberian jambon de coche (€7), zucchini blossom fritters (€6), or delicious chocolate lava cake with a homemade salted caramel center and fromage blanc sorbet (€8). Perhaps pair them with Vendemia, a red Gaillac from the Domaine de Brin (€22), or Les Escures, a Cahors from Fabien Jouves (€26), etc. À la carte €30-35. // P.L.