One dining room, two vibes. While papa fills his plastic takeaway containers with spring rolls, caramel pork and fried rice behind the windowed refrigerator displays, his Gagnaire-trained son Gilly serves a set gastronomic menu for insiders, savored in a space with paper tablecloths and neon lights. The night we went: an œuf parfait wobbling over lentils and diced haddock, enlivened by a raspberry vinaigrette; a perfect zucchini velouté with crisp black rice and tasty clams; an audacious speed date between tender roasted guinea fowl and pan-fried shrimp over a shellfish jus, onion cream and sautéed baby vegetables; before an honest cardamom and mirabelle plum parfait to conclude this improbable and endearing meal. // A.B.
FEELING THIRSTY? The wine list is less impressive than the gastronomic fare: a Menetou-Salon white from the Domaine de Loye (€4 a glass) or a Givry red from Joseph Drouhin (€25 a bottle).
PRICE: Set menu €30.