Jòia (Paris)

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It’s rather ironic that Hélène Darroze decided to open her spot for modern feasts on Rue des Jeûneurs (which literally translates as “fasters road”)! In a neat space that brings together blonde hardwood floors and peacock blue banquettes, the queen of the kitchen and TV studios focuses her energy on her native southwestern France, with oodles of joy – or jòia in the Béarn patois. The other day at lunch, seated around the communal table with views of the open kitchen: flavorful Bigorre ham from Pierre Matayron; asparagus from the Var with duck foie gras and morel mushrooms in a jus de viande for the heartening appetizer; a massive line-caught whole hake for two, served with a chimichurri sauce that was heavier on the herbs than on the chilies, plus your choice of potatoes with rosemary and Basque sheep’s milk cheese, peas with lardons, or polenta; before an Instagrammable matcha and yuzu cream “millecrêpe”. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? The wine list is thorough, clean and 100% feminine: an elegant Chablis from Athénaïs de Béru (€12 a glass), an Hérault Lady Chasselas from Mylène Bru (€45 a bottle), a Monthélie from Fanny Sabre (€60)…

PRICE: Set menu €32 (weekday lunch), à la carte €59-86, brunch €48 (Saturday).

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