Jérôme Bigot, Best Bistrodidacte Guide 2013
First discovered at Les Grès in Lindry (2012-2015), Jérôme Bigot pursues his former ascetic lifestyle which began in 2016 in the shade of the cathedral. In this small restaurant with a monastic feel (white roughcast walls, big exposed stones, an organ, a white marble table d’hôte), the former Parisian painter now leads these funny black masses, with a kitchen blowtorch in hand and spellbinding dishes that form demonic processions. For us, the night we went: a chaga mushroom, black garlic and fresh horseradish broth, with beautiful poached oysters under a parasol of nasturtiums (€13); raw and flame-charred blue ling slices, bathed in a blood-red fermented blueberry jus, with a shroud of white beetroot and browned butter (€14); a cream that was over-infused with licorice, contrasted with pickled, roasted and confit leek, with bitter notes from bottarga from Martigues (€14) – perfect with a glass of Italian orange wine by Lo Zerbone (€7); pork loin with onions, slow-roasted until it fell into a trance, served with pumpkin purée, hazelnuts and sorrel (€15); a oat, rice and rye porridge, impregnated by a porcini and shiitake milk, and sprinkled with thin slices of L’Etivaz cheese (€13) – excellent with a nice oxidative Chenin from Chéné (€8); before a sardonic laugh via a goat’s milk frozen yogurt with rhubarb confit, a crumble topping, a white chocolate mousse and marjoram (€12). To drink, there’s Barbe Rouge, a Gamay from Jérôme Balmet (€32 a bottle) or a Greek white from the Kalathas estate (€63). Dishes €8-19. // A.S.