From inside his colorful Rubik’s Cube-style kitchen, the talented Richard Maizel (ex-Paul Bert and Le Grand Bain) is reinventing the North African art of hors-d’oeuvres, otherwise known as kémia. A fine demonstration the other night, when his Mediterranean plates arrived on our table: a divine taramasalata; addictive fried grey shrimp with chili and lemon and a classic aioli dipping sauce; an ethereal spelt wheat risotto with sweet potatoes, citrus and bottarga; flavorful falafel with an herbed cream and pumpkin seeds; a cheeky duck breast with confit thighs, polenta, marinated kohlrabi and golden corn; before a comforting orange semolina cake with roasted/poached Mirabelle plums. At lunch, make way for the market menu, which might feature things like kohlrabi with almond purée and puffed freekeh; Tunisian-style fried red mullet with sweet potato and harissa purée; scorpionfish and grilled purple sprouting broccoli; roasted guinea fowl, radicchio and salsify; honey cake and clementine sorbet. // C.Do.
FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of natural Southern wines: a red from Tenuta Macciarola in Puglia (€6.50 a glass), a Burgundy Aligoté from Fanny Sabre (€7.50), a red from the Latium by Paolo Bombetti (€35 a bottle)…
PRICE: Set menus at lunch €17-21-24, plates €7-14 (dinner).