KGB (Kitchen Galerie Bis)
The second location of William Ledeuil’s Ze Kitchen Galerie has been elevating tapas since 2009, inside this a pop art space with boudoir-style lounges and leather benches. The “zors’d’oevres” are always in fashion and just as exciting as ever, with deliciously bold and vibrant Asian touches. For our dinner, crafted by the loyal lieutenant chef Martin Maumet: an excellent Thai broth with marinated foie gras + shrimp bisque and softshell crab tempura + a scoop of cod brandade over leeks vinaigrette and an avocado dip (€15 for the three); line-caught hake in a creamy Thai bouillabaisse, spicy citrus sauce vierge and carrots (€29); slow-roasted deboned quail in a spellbinding honey-sweet tamarind sauce, over a bed of asparagus and shiitake mushrooms (€30); before a baba au limoncello, topped with roasted apricot and Thai basil, then a matcha-white chocolate ice cream with toasted pistachio crumble and juicy strawberries (€10 each). As for the liquids, we drink well and primarily natural: a luminous Terrasses-du-Larzac red from Le Mas de L’Ecriture (€9.50 a glass), a white Anjou, Gourmandise du Gué d’Orger, from Loïc Mahé (€10.50), a red Côtes-du-Roussillon from Hervé Bizeul (€36 a bottle) and exceptional bottles, like the Pouilly-Fumé, Pur Sang, from Didier Dagueneau for €195. Set menus €29-36-49 (weekday lunch), €55-66 (dinner and Saturday lunch), à la carte €49-62 (dinner). // R.deC.