KGB (Kitchen Galerie Bis)

KGB (Kitchen Galerie Bis) (Paris)

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William Ledeuil’s dazzling bistro shares the same French-Asian DNA and good table manners as its older sister, Ze Kitchen Galerie. Opened in 2009, Kitchen Galerie Bis was destroyed by a fire in June 2019, before being reborn from the ashes four months later under the leadership of the loyal Martin Maumet, who warms up the space (blonde hardwood floors, red leather banquettes, works of art on the walls), filled with expectant taste buds. On the €49 menu the day we went for lunch: four flavorful “Zors-d’œuvres” – surrealist sautéed duck with broccoletti and kalamansi; origami-esque shrimp ravioli with dashi and marinated papaya; incredible leeks vinaigrette with hummus, trout roe and smoked eel; a very pure sea bream sashimi with beets and kasha; followed by a giant whiting with beurre blanc sauce, yuzu kosho (a condiment made from chili and yuzu rind) for a touch of the tropics and nori, under a sprinkling of cabbage and radish; before plump brioche French toast with chestnuts and pistachios for the brilliant finale. // M.J-.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic wines from all over: an Alsace-Riesling vieilles vignes from Sylvie Spielmann (€12.50 a glass), a Jura Pinot noir from the Domaine de l’Envol (€34 a bottle), a Languedoc white from Le Clos Marie (€58)…

PRICE: Menus €29-36-49 (lunch), €55-66 (dinner).

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