Kodawari Yokocho

With its lit-up signs shining like an endless Tokyo night, its sheet metal bars and tables mounted on beer crates, this ramen joint from Jean-Baptiste Meusnier (a former airline pilot) specializes in frenetic Japanese hits made with French ingredients. A bipolar trip via bowls of smoking hot ramen made with a divine Breton clam dashi broth, prepared two ways: shoyu ramen with free-range Basque pork, or shio ramen with chicken and grated bottarga (€12 each). Also spotted on the audacious menu: kurogoma ramen, where you can fish out tender chasu pork, roasted tomatoes, a soft-boiled egg and al dente noodles made using wheat flour from the Ardennes, in a spellbinding sauce with black sesame, garlic and ginger (€13) – unless you’d prefer the vegetarian version – a soup of shiitake mushrooms, peas, Parmesan, grilled eggplant and green curry (€15). As for the desserts, don’t skip the delicious dorayaki (Japanese pancakes) from the Tomo pastry shop from certified Nippomaniac Romain Gaia (€6.50). To drink, there’s Kirin beer on tap (€4 for 30 cl) or umeshu (€4 a glass). Ramen €12-17. // R.deC.