restaurant

Kokoro

Kokoro (Paris)

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Two Arpège-trained chefs pamper market-fresh produce in this tiny Latin Quarter bistro (a bright yellow façade, oak tables, a mezzanine space). Vendée native Frédéric Charrier prepares the savory dishes, while Japanese chef Sakura Mori takes care of the sweets. The results? Beautiful neo-bistro fare prepared with two sets of hands, tested (à la carte) and approved by us the other day at lunch: mussels in an unfussy breading of cashews and homemade bread; tender pan-fried veal chops from Coutances, paired with briny sea beans and a sea lettuce jus; before a tangy, crumbly tart topped with summer apples and Muscat grapes. It’s worth noting that the duo also serve their cuisine on tantalizing prix-fixe lunch menus (eg.: homemade free-range pork loin terrine; line-caught mackerel flash-seared on the plancha with macaire potatoes (potato cakes) and oyster mushrooms; fresh verbena crème brûlée) and dinner menus: (eg.: veal ravioli glazed in a smoked bonito jus with yellow cauliflower and watercress; guinea fowl thigh and suprême with red kuri squash and turmeric spätzel; flaky roasted apple tart with caramel and ice cream). // A.B.

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic wines: a Muscadet from the Domaine de la Tourlaudière (€6 a glass); Java, a Roussillon white from La Cave Apicole (€38 a bottle); a Lot Malbec from the Domaine La Calmette (€42).

PRICE: Menus €21 and €26 (lunch) and €35 (dinner), à la carte €44-60.

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