Kunitoraya (Udon Bistro)
Brick walls, ceiling moldings, timeworn wooden rafters, communal tables… Ever since opening in 2013, this Brooklyn-esque space has become one of the best udon spots in Paris! Once you’ve waited in line for a table and placed your order with one the waiters dressed in white, the voluptuous feast of thick wheat noodles can commence… For us, the day we went for lunch, they were served hot in a crystalline pork broth with shrimp and soft seaweed (€17); or, served cold with some vegetable tempura that ought to win an award (€7). It’s worth noting that the house also excels in other Japanese classics, like fried karaage chicken (€10) and tonkatsu pork (€10), and other treats like the delightful mullet bottarga combined with slices of daikon radish (€10). To drink, there’s Kirin beer on tap (€5), Tosazuru sake (€10 for 100 cl) and Japanese tea (€4). Udon €10-22, plates €7-18. // A.A.