L’Abri des Barges
The ship mast lets you know that you’ve arrived at L’Abri des Barges, the chic nautical inn (bay windows, blonde wooden furniture, fireplace) located deep within an isolated valley. For almost 10 years, the former culinary photographer Christian Adam has been serving here wild fish caught by independent fishermen, cooked using a thermometer (54°C for the turbot, 45°C for the monkfish) and served with the care of an aesthete. The haddock (€10)? It’s draped in a savory crème anglaise sauce and tarragon-infused floating island. The palourde clams (€12)? They open up in an astonishing marinière. The monkfish (€24)? It’s drunk on a cream of curry leaves and a crispy yet melt-in-your-mouth rice cake. The strawberry soup with Timut peppercorn meringue (€7.50)? It’s even better when seated on the terrace facing the Estuaire du Jaudy, with a glass of Anjou blanc from the Château Pierre-Bise (€5.50). Some other drink options: Génération IV, a Coteaux-du-Loir red from the Domaine de Cézin (€4.80 a glass), a Pouilly-Fumé from Sophie Landrat-Guyollot (€43 a bottle), or a red Cheverny from Tessier (€29.50). À la carte €34-53. // R.deC.