L’Abri des Barges
Located on the Jaudy estuary, in a 16th-century windmill that’s been transformed into a contemporary bistro (
a modern fireplace, table d’hôte on the mezzanine upstairs, vintage furniture…), the ex-culinary photographer Christian Adam makes the best the tide brings in shiver with delight. On the blackboard menu and on our plates the day we went: hazelnut-crusted praire clams stuffed with butter (but no garlic); sublime cuttlefish drizzled with butter and served with a potato gratin and vitelotte potato chips; and for dessert, an Espelette pepper-spiced creme brulee or strawberries with whipped cream and a rhubarb compote. As for the wines, there’s a beautiful selection from their winemaker friends: Anjou from Claude and Joëlle Papin (€24 a bottle), Cour-Cheverny blanc from Philippe Tessier (€24), Muscadet from Claude Branger…. À la carte €40-45. // J.G.