L’Abri des Barges

48°48.226 N, 3°12.827 W. If you’re coming by sea, anchor your skiff at these coordinates. Former food photographer Christian Adam bought the stables of a 16th-century mill located along the Jaudy estuary, and turned them into a modern bistro. On the plates you’ll find the best local catch prepared with world inspirations: very nice oyster tempura beignets; delicious salt cod accras; stunning grilled lobster (€9.50 for 100 g); wonderfully prepared fish – gently steamed wild turbot, plancha-grilled scallops served in their shells; and a lovely tonka bean crème brûlée for dessert. It’s just a shame that the herbed floating island with a creamy haddock bisque for the appetizer, and the vegetable spring rolls served on the side of the yellow pollack were both a little too heavy. To drink, so long as you’re not under water, there’s a beautiful selection of small producer wines: Fiefs-Vendéens from Mourat (€23 a bottle), Cour-Cheverny Les Sables (€32), and a beautiful Haut-Médoc Mademoiselle L from the Château La Lagune (€42). À la carte €28-80. // Y.G.