Fish from Christophe Domec in Ciboure, suckling lamb from the Belaun co-op in the Aldudes, fruit and vegetables from Ramuntxo Laco in Hélette… At Laetitia and Luke Dolphin’s place, they don’t mess around when sourcing their ingredients. In their intimate space that combines timeworn hardwood floors, blonde wooden tables and upholstered benches, the Aussie chef (ex-Baroque in Sydney and L’Impertinent in Biarritz) stitches together cleverly inspired, terroir-rich dishes. The other night, the €40 chef’s menu featured: dried buck breast and Kintoa pork matraila (a type of charcuterie) for the rustic amuse-bouches; delicate meagre crudo with a sheep’s milk labneh, pickled grey shallots and sea fennel; stunning line-caught hake roasted in the oven, glazed with a fish head jus and served with Borlotti beans and garlic all tickled by a sauce vierge made with red onions, lacto-fermented tomatoes and homemade red wine vinegar; before a very gourmet honey pudding that was perfectly balanced by the yogurt sorbet, meringue and slivered almonds for dessert. // P.L.
FEELING THIRSTY? Excellent clean wines: a local, biodynamic white from the Domaine Arretxea (€6.50 a glass), an organic white from Jon Goenaga in Getaria (€28 a bottle), a natural Morgon from Jean Foillard (€51)…
PRICE: Menus €20-25 (lunch), €40 and €60 (dinner), à la carte €42-61.