L'Anversis, Table de Montagne
When you’re staying at the foot of the Jura ski slopes, boycotting fondue is tantamount to blasphemy! At L’Anversis – a beautiful space with a table d’hôte, creaky hardwood floors and clever suspension lamps composed of carafes, glasses and silverware – Sylvie and Bernard Robbe love making them with the traditional Comté, but also with Morbier and escargot or Comté, lardons and red wine… And that’s not all! Amongst the other possible options, there are soup-main-salad-dessert menus (Morteau sausage in crust, veal grenadine, Arctic char…) starting at €25, along with an impeccable set menu (€29). The night we went, it included: simple, undressed “radishes from grandma”; a powerful nettle soup; and an unforgettable poached Bresse chicken with incredible textures and flavors, served with a Morbier tartine and a wild garlic purée. The meal ended with a delightful morel mushroom crème brûlée. To drink on long winter nights: thirty-some “green fairies,” including La Perchée (€5.50) and over 150 Jura wines – Chardonnay Ratapoil (€33 a bottle), Trousseau from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€39), Savgnin from Stéphane Tissot (€39,50) or Ploussard from the Domaine de la Borde (€6 a glass). And don’t forget about the French whiskeys, including the Uberach aged in Ganevat wine barrels (€8 for 40 ml). Menus €25 to €41, kids €15. // G.D.