This metamorphic den owned by Marine Deleu (ex-Petit Vatel) and Didier Saïn really hits the bull’s eye, bringing together a set lunch menu, tapas at cocktail hour, dinner plates, a bistro interior and an incredible little terrace out front. A demonstration the day we went for lunch in August 2018, with an impeccable €17 set menu: fresh and still seasonal pea soup; a beautiful Thai salad with Landes chicken and sticky rice; before a comforting rhubarb, apple and ginger crumble. A new demonstration at apéro hour (6pm to 7pm), with Conquet saucisson (€4), homemade smoked cod taramasalata with black radish (€4), a Saumur-Champigny from Bobinet (€5.50 a glass) or a Chapeau Melon Merlot from Méryl Croizier (€5). And don’t forget about the mouthwatering dishes served at 7pm: crispy shrimp with green rice (€9); Landes duck tartare with green mango and sticky rice (€14), dry-aged faux-filet with homemade fries and green salad (€28), etc. Pair it all with something natural: an Alsace Pinot noir from Christian Binner (€38 a bottle), a white Patrimonio from Antoine Arena (€48). Set menus €15-17 (lunch), apéro €4-8, mains €9-29 (dinner), brunch €24 (Saturday and Sunday). // O.J.