L'Arpège (Paris)

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Fooding Guide 2003 special honor award 

On this sunny September lunch, tomatoes were clearly abundant in Alain Passard’s garden, located 227 kilometers away from the restaurant. They were the star of the Déjeuner des Jardiniers where, for €175, the chef narrated us an intimate story over 10 chapters of the passing of time and relentless nature. Our favorite memories from the thunderous recipes of a grand druid who has graced the pages of comic books and Netflix screens alike: a stunning slurpable mustard ice cream in a cucumber gazpacho; a care-free (and last of the season!) summer salad with peppered mozzarella from Presenzone, tomato and melon; a deliciously flaky tart with oven-roasted tomatoes and a plant-based caramel that will live on in eternal memory; a classic minestrone with garden veg and smoked eel; incredible vegetable patch ravioli in a verbena-tomato broth; not to mention the ice cream puffs covered in a silky hay cream and crushed sugared almonds. // R.deC.

FEELING THIRSTY? Selected from a spellbinding wine book (800 references), there are a few wines served by the glass (Flores, a Sancerre from Vincent Pinard at €14, an Irancy from David Reynaud at €13), along with some major wines at accessible prices: an Alsace-Pinot gris Rosenberg from the Domaine Barmès-Buecher (€65), a Papesse from the Domaine Gramenon (€75 a bottle)….

PRICE: Menu €175, €340 and €420, à la carte €244-348.


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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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