With tables scattered throughout the garden and a patio dressed in white linen, this blonde stone farmhouse with a Viscontian look has long been a breeding ground for chefs. Most notably, it was where Guillaume Foucault (Pertica in Vendôme) and Mathieu Moity (Iratze in Paris) first sprung up, amongst others. After a period of relative calm, Pierre Beghin and Benoît Hérault placed their bets on Julien Lavandet, an enfant terrible from the surrounding countryside. He skilfully cooks with a southern accent, putting his regional spin on the small menu (€55). The other night: it got off to a good start with a miniature hand-cut Taureau de Camargue steak tatare; followed by a cleverly deconstructed salade niçoise – flash-seared Albacore tuna, an anchovy tartelette, juicy tomatoes and olives; before a roasted Dombes quail with sautéed chanterelle mushrooms and an explosive cherry-savory jus; and, in the guise of an au revoir, a strawberry salad with an olive oil cream and tarragon sorbet. This ultra-local feast merits some regional wines: a beautiful white C3 from the Domaine de Cressance, L’Olivette, a Pic-Saint-Loup from the Clos Marie (€6 a glass), or Volcae, a red from the Domaine Mas des Volques (€29 a bottle) …. Menus €55-80. // R.deC.