L’Avant-comptoir des Neiges au M de Megève
Deer antlers hung from the ceiling, sheep skin throws, birch wood partitions, booth-style benches… Since having a makeover in 2013 by interior designer Alain Perrier, the luxurious M de Megève needed a breath of fresh air when it came to its gastronomy. The result? A big tapas menu crafted by His Majesty Yves Camdeborde, which the guests dressed in Moncler gobble up. Here goes the montage: pieces of grilled sausage with buttery, almost fondue-like mashed potatoes to dip into (€16); ham-Comté croque monsieurs (€9); or a fancy version with truffles (€21); incredible Parmesan and tapioca fries (€5); clever faux risotto made with orzo and squid ink (€11); or roasted new potatoes seasoned with salmon roe (€7); and there’s even a fantastic rice pudding-style tapioca dessert, with kiwi and a sorrel sauce (€6). The wine list is a little more traditional, but there are some hidden gems: a white Mondeuse from Grisard served by the glass (€11), an excellent Apremont from Giachino (€38), a red Sancerre from Gaudry (€79). Tapas €5-34. // A.S.