We dream about filling our bellies with Yves Camdeborde’s miniatures in this rather wine-heavy and eternally jam-packed spot. It’s a little den fueled on human warmth, where everyone tutoies everyone else, has a glass in hand before even reaching the bar that’s lined with full glasses of wine, terrines and good bread. Come at any time of the day for a snack or a meal, with pyrotechnic mouthfuls made by the son of a delicatessen: an uncompromising country ham plate (€9), plus sophisticated tapas: white Landes asparagus and citrus slices under a snowfall of Parmesan shavings; good flash-seared roast beef, prepared as a carpaccio with Parmesan, arugula and tapenade (€6.50); big artichokes in vinaigrette; crisp boudin and apple cigars (€5.50); crispy and tender pork trotter croquettes (€5); and for all those with a sweet tooth, tapioca pearls cooked in coconut milk (€5). Naturally, this place wouldn’t still be standing without the wines: Tavel blanc from Anglore (€7 a glass), Cévenol, Sota Mon Soleu, from the Mas de L’Escarida (€6), Cheverny rouge, Le point du Jour, from Philippe Tessier (€32 a bottle) …. À la carte €15-40. // M.J.-D.