Trained under those wielding Michelin stars (Savoy, Gagnaire, Viannay), Melik Debadji delivers his bistro fare solo, from the kitchen of his tiny restaurant. At night, for €30 you’ll find large grilled leeks and sardines in oil on a bed of arugula to open the ball; a beautiful piece of roasted hake, served very hot with crispy (green) lentils, a (green) watercress jus and (pink) grapefruit; then an olive oil cake with fresh blood orange, chilled cream and a lemon-basil ice cream for a refreshing dessert that felt somewhat slapdash. At lunch? Unbeatable dishes of the day for €11: boeuf bourguignon with salsify or veal blanquette with black rice…. And the glasses of wine (€5 to €6) are in perfect harmony with the rest: P’tit blanc du Tue-Bœuf, Cheverny from Les Hauts de Madon, and a selection of natural wines (€26 to €98) from Courtois, Barret, Riss, Stéphan…. Set menu €15 (lunch), menu €28 (dinner). // A.S.