We rediscovered Charline Bellanger (formerly of Le Café de la Nouvelle Mairie) in a nice little restaurant (hanging light bulbs, big mirrors with the menu and the names of suppliers written out on them), popping open bottles from the original wine list (55 labels) that goes mano a mano with the cuisine from Melik Debadji (ex-Savoy, Gagnaire…). On the €32 menu the other night: haddock and pickled cucumber over a vapory browned butter emulsion and cream of lentil; slow-roasted lamb over a charred onion cream with smoked paprika and chard; then, for the more exciting dessert, cream of dill with Nice lemon confit, whole strawberries and a wild strawberry ice cream. Pair it with, for example, El Pépé, a Vieux Carignan from the Domaine des Quatre Pierres (€5.50 a glass) or a very rare white Assyrtiko, Lamda, from the Domaine Ligas (€32 a bottle). Set menu options €20 (lunch Thursday and Friday), menu-carte €32 (dinner and Saturday-Sunday at lunch). // D.C.