L’Ebauche? It’s a miniature restaurant with old-fashioned tile floors, naked suspension lamps and two tables for six, where chef Melik Debadji (ex-Gagnaire and Viannay) and sommelier Charline Bellanger (ex-Café de la Nouvelle Mairie) serve an incredible lunch menu for a mere 20 kopecks. The day we went for lunch: an unusual appetizer of al dente haricots verts wrapped up in an excellent grapefruit mayonnaise, with chives, cherries and pickled onions; a formidable meagre steak cooked to golden perfection in butter and served smoking hot over thinly sliced zucchini marinated in raspberry vinegar, with redcurrants and spinach purée; before strawberries siphoned over lemon and sesame tuiles (a little less impressive than the rest). To drink, there are some beautiful gems worth excavating from the collection: Babiole, an Ardèche red from Calek (€5.50 a glass), Semplicemente, a Piedmont from Bellotti (€38 a bottle) or a white Sancerre from Gaudry (€40). Menus €20 (weekday lunch), €27-32 (weekend lunch and at night). // A.S.