Behind the counter of this nautical spot (stone walls, marble tables), three crates of oysters are dressed to impress. Opt for 16 Marennes-Oléron oysters (next to their cousins from Cancale and Utah Beach, depending on what’s fresh) and you’ll get the hoped-for briny slap to the face, while aesthetically pleasing plates of squid with chorizo or pollack ceviche surf by. The night we went, instead of sea bream and tourteau crab (due to the tide’s caprices), we opted for homemade coalfish rillettes and fried smelt. Some other options, served individually or in larger portions: whelks, grey shrimp, amandes clams, cockles and sea urchins… // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? A lovely organic Coteaux-d’Aix rosé from the Domaine de Sulauze (€6.50 a glass), a Picpoul-de-Pinet Félines Jourdan (€23 a bottle), a Sancerre, Sur le Fort, from the Domaine Fouassier (€39), or a Morgon from Burgaud (€35.50)… all from the Cave de L’Ebéniste, a little further up the street.
PRICE: Oysters €12-22 for six, shellfish platters €65 for two, appetizers €5-14, mains €16-26.