Back in 2016, a former Airbus executive and an ex-chef at Zoko Moko in Saint-Jean-de-Luz opened up a seriously classy neo-bistro near the covered market – solid oak furniture, purple walls, an open kitchen. Running the room, Jean serves Rémy’s beautiful plates and lets the blood of the earth spill into the glasses. The day we went for lunch, we enjoyed some fresh, well-made cuisine: squid tagliatelle prepared like a carbonara, with egg yolk and bacon – a gourmet treat borrowed from Jean-François Piège’s repertoire – or perfect pork trotter croquettes with a cream of celery and a spring onion compote; a naturist Normand steak with cheeky béarnaise sauce and divine mashed potatoes – or juicy cod with oyster mushrooms cooked in garlic; before a gigantic tarte tatin refreshed by a Granny Smith apple sorbet. And to drink: a Bourgogne Mâcon-Uchizy from the Domaine Talmard (€6 a glass), a biodynamic Bordeaux from the Château L’Escart (€6), a lively Saint-Péray white from Bernard Gripa (€58 a bottle) or even a Morgon from the Domaine du Petit Pérou (€30). Menus €45-60, à la carte €50-75. // N.K.