The name (handed down by Basque chef and former owner Philippe Tredgeu) hasn’t changed and neither has the interior, with its checkboard floors, bistro furniture and burgundy benches. And yet, ever since the arrival of the L’Ambroisie-trained Enrico Bertazzo (ex-Atelier de Robuchon) in the kitchen, a new wind appears to be blowing through this hangout for bistronomes, tucked away in the Ternes neighborhood. The aim of the game here? To revisit French bourgeois cuisine. Seated tête-à-tête, the night we went we ordered: an œuf parfait with tasty chanterelles and Florentine sauce; a delightful estouffade (a sort of stew) of escargot, vegetables, lardons and persillade; beautiful quail stuffed with foie gras, a Cognac jus and grapes; tender beef cheek bourguignon with outstanding carrots; before a silky limoncello soufflé served with an excellent pistachio ice cream for dessert. The only hiccup was that if you feel like indulging in wine, the bill adds up very quickly. // S.L.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a wine list that’s more organic than traditional: a Moselle white, Les Gryphées, from the Château de Vaux (€7 a glass); a Pic-Saint-Loup red, L’Olivette, from the Domaine Clos Marie (€8); a Savennières, La Croix Picot, from the Domaine de la Bergerie (€56 a bottle); and a Touraine red, Le Côté Cabernet, from Les Poëtes 2011 (€40).
PRICE: Menu €35-40 (weekday lunch) and €45-50 (dinner).