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The name (handed down by Basque chef and former owner Philippe Tredgeu) hasn’t changed and neither has the interior, with its checkboard floors, bistro furniture and burgundy benches. And yet, ever since the arrival of the L’Ambroisie-trained Enrico Bertazzo (ex-Atelier de Robuchon) in the kitchen, a new wind appears to be blowing through this hangout for bistronomes, tucked away in the Ternes neighborhood. The aim of the game here? To revisit French bourgeois cuisine. Seated tête-à-tête, the night we went we ordered: an œuf parfait with tasty chanterelles and Florentine sauce; a delightful estouffade (a sort of stew) of escargot, vegetables, lardons and persillade; beautiful quail stuffed with foie gras, a Cognac jus and grapes; tender beef cheek bourguignon with outstanding carrots; before a silky limoncello soufflé served with an excellent pistachio ice cream for dessert. The only hiccup was that if you feel like indulging in wine, the bill adds up very quickly. // S.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a wine list that’s more organic than traditional: a Moselle white, Les Gryphées, from the Château de Vaux (€7 a glass); a Pic-Saint-Loup red, L’Olivette, from the Domaine Clos Marie (€8); a Savennières, La Croix Picot, from the Domaine de la Bergerie (€56 a bottle); and a Touraine red, Le Côté Cabernet, from Les Poëtes 2011 (€40).

PRICE: Menu €35-40 (weekday lunch) and €45-50 (dinner).

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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