Careful not to show up naked! This Espiguette isn’t a nudist beach hangout like in Grau du Roi, but rather a haphazard guinguette run by Guillaume Poupardin, who’s decorated this formerly anonymous restaurant with auction house ware, featuring a big bar, Art Deco wall lights, 1950s chandeliers and chairs which escaped from wild nights at Régine’s… Here, expect to enjoy beautiful bistro cuisine – so long as you’re not in too much of a rush. The day we went for lunch: a thick and juicy slice of rabbit pressé with big chunks of meat in a hearty tarragon jelly (€8); calf’s ruffle andouillette, oven-roasted and served with hand-cut fries (€19.80); before a creamy rice pudding for the final blow (€7.80). As for the wines, there are some good aces in the hole: L’Etang de Sol, a white Picpoul from La Cave de l’Ormarine (€4.80 a glass), a Saumur-Champigny red from the Château de Villeneuve (€36 a bottle) or even La Renardière, a Pouilly-Fumé from Bouchié-Chatellier (€40). Not to mention the handful of beers on tap (Paillette from Le Havre, Belgian Vedett and Maredsous, starting at €3.80 for a half-pint) or by the bottle – Torchon Chiffon Carpette from Marcoussis, Kasteel from Belgium (€6.50). Set menus €14.80 (weekday lunch), à la carte from €29.40 to €49.40. // D.C.