With its Formica tables topped with checkered tablecloths, cutlery station and imposing counter/cockpit, L’Espiguette is an historic, bistronomical vessel that attracts regulars aboard for an unbeatable lunch menu, with an appetizer, main and dessert all for just €12.80. The day we went, it was thin slices of pear and Stilton cheese, with toasted pine nuts and arugula; a perfect flank steak with shallots, pink peppercorns and fat hand-cut fries on the side; and for an extra €7.80, an impeccable pavlova (or a traditional rice pudding). And to get your sea legs: a smooth glass of Morgon from Desvignes (€5) or Vermentino from Grange (€4). At night, you’ll find the same bistro fare served even more generously (à la carte €23-50). // A.S.