A little stop at L’Espiguette with a Pailette beer and an assiette of something to eat, what a fine idea! But finicky eaters should abstain…. Because this bar from another era (a zinc-topped wooden bar, Art Déco light fixtures, Formica tables, a cobblestoned terrace…) only sends out classic, rustic bistro dishes: rabbit and tarragon pressé or a homemade chicken liver terrine to kick things off right; cast iron pots where beef cheeks à la provençale simmer, osso buco with lemon confit or raviolis in ragoût; and a trifle of raspberries and honey topped with Baileys to end the meal on a high note! To drink, there’s handsome bottles selected with care: Faugères du Mas des Capitelles, Mâcon-Azé from the Domaine de Rochebin (€5 a glass), Crozes from Darnaud and Corbières Ollieux-Romanis (€35 and €23 the bottle). Formula €12.80 (lunch during the week), à la carte €29-50 (dinner). // G.D.