Amongst the numerous natural bottles, prop your elbows on one of the solid workbenches converted into high table and take advantage of the sharp advice from Alphone and Thomas. In their glasses? Chemin des Murs, a white Saumur from the Château de Parnay (€6.50 a glass); a Brouilly vieilles vignes from Lapalu (€30 a bottle); or Cisselande, a Collines-Rhodaniennes red from the Clos de la Bonnette (€45). And to go with all that, there are all kinds of good things served on platters: andouille or Langouille (€15), Parma hams (€21), truffled mangalitza (€21), pork filet mignon smoked over beech wood (the star of the house, €19), sage saucisson from Chavassieux (from €9 to €17, depending on the size), matured cheeses (from €8 to €16), mozzarella and burrata with truffles with Vincenzo Candido (€21), etc. And don’t forget about the hot dishes that get the job done right: oven-roasted boudin noir from Ospital (€15), a tartine topped with fresh goat cheese and pesto (€16), or grilled organic seasonal vegetables (€16). Platters €16-19, set menus €15-22 (lunch). // A.M.-D.