What’s new at the foot of Montmartre? At 28 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne, the famous studio/kitchen is changing hands once again, with a new name and a new chef. After Daniel Rose’s restaurant Spring and Raphaël Régo’s Maloka, it’s time for L’Innocence from Jonathan Caron, the former chef de rang at La Bigarrade, backed up by Anne Legrand (ex-Itinéraires and Clarence) in the kitchen. The latter makes a delicate display of her talents on menus with rather kitsch floral names. The Saturday we went for lunch, the “dwarf dahlia” menu included four “petals”: delightful grilled cauliflower with a lemon condiment and fromage blanc-faisselle cheese; a soft-boiled egg gently trembling with joy, paired with garlic purée and anchovy cream; medium-rare Challans duck breast, duck leg confit with herbes de Provence and rhubarb; then, a thin meringue tuile with fennel seeds, Corsican grapefruit and a wild almond mousse. Not to mention the interludes and the chef’s little surprises: scallops with celery water, Peloponnesian feta tempura, or even homemade sorrel sorbet and a cacao crumble. To wash it all down? There’s a short wine list that’s nonetheless packed full of gems at reasonable prices, including some young and organic wines like a Fronton La Colombière (€30 a bottle) and a Champigny from Sanzay (€35). Set menus: €23, €25 and €30 (Friday at lunch); €35 (Saturday at lunch); €49 (dinner). Food and wine pairings for an additional €29. // G.D.