Le Fooding Guide’s 2014 special honor award
An open kitchen, vintage chairs, mismatched tableware… Winner of the Guide Fooding d’Amour 2014 award, this Belleville bistro with a bric-a-brac vibe continues to charm, with no extra fuss necessary. You’ll still find Thomas Chevrier in charge, who’s a key member of the former Pères Populaires group, running the restaurant to a T, without giving up on his convictions. Expect perfectly prepared basics for €4 when you’re feeling peckish (incredible deviled egg, tasty peas with feta…) or an unstoppable €17 menu at lunch. The other day: a chilled beetroot soup intensified by Kampot pepper; incredible veal tartare with roasted vegetables; then a sweet honey-marinated cherry panna cotta. To drink: an unbeatable table wine at €2.80 a glass, a Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine, Mouton Noire, from Vincent Caillé (€5) or a supple Pinot noir from the Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand (€32 a bottle). Don’t forget, for those who prefer blonds, L’Orillon Beer from L’Orillon Bar is a fresh lager brewed by the Scotsman Craig Allan (€2.80 for a half-pint). Set menus €14-20 (lunch), à la carte €19. // J.S.