Le Fooding Guide’s 2014 special honor award
An old zinc bar, moldings on the ceilings, mismatched tables, a vintage meat fridge… We’d absolutely love to live above this pretty little bistro. As the decibels rise and the seats fill up, you’ll find chef-owner Thomas Chevrier (ex-Pères Populaires) right in the middle of all the action, sending out sharp plates that hit his regulars and happy newcomers right in the heart. Sourced locally, the unbeatable and truly delightful €17 prix-fixe menu was a crowd-pleaser the day we went for lunch: a delicate kohlrabi carpaccio with chives and a Profil Grec olive oil and lemon juice dressing; a beautiful slice of roast beef from the Ferme de Clavisy, served rare with a heartening, mildly sweet potato-carrot purée, plus a reduction to tie it all together; before a yogurt cake for dessert reminiscent of snack time as a child, paired with an essential fresh peach purée. At night, come for the platters (charcuterie, cheese, pan con tomate, taramasalata and homemade hummus or charred eggplant caviar), which goes so nicely with the wonderful drinks selection.
FEELING THIRSTY? Organic and natural wines: a Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine from Vincent Caillé (€5 a glass), a Côtes-Catalanes white from the Domaine Bellavista (€22 a bottle) or a straight-forward Saumur-Champigny from Bobinet (€32). There are also Craig Allan craft beers on tap (€2.80 to €4.50 for a half-pint).
PRICE: Dish of the day €11, menu €14-17 (lunch), snacks €3-5, plates €6-10.