L'Ourson qui boit
The bottle doesn’t matter, as long as there’s drunkenness to be had…. The setting doesn’t matter (parquet and wooden slabs on the floor, Altuglas chairs, beat-up tables), so long as there’s a good time to be had! And everything works out here, since chef Akira Nishigaki is a generous man. A demonstration with his small lunch menu (€20), which you can savor under a ceiling with baby bears floating around like astronauts. The other day: a medium-rare beef spring roll with grated and marinated kohlrabi, followed by a pearly-white cod fillet under a cloud of sake sauce, served with pointy cabbage and sautéed mushrooms, then an incredible warm financier made even better by the addition of a brown tea crème caramel for dessert. And to tame your drunkenness, there are some beautiful glasses of wine: Bourgogne blanc from Vincent Bachelet or a powerful Crozes red, Mise en Bouche, from Emmanuel Darnaud (€5). Jugs of wine €14-18, bottles €20-100. Menus €20 (lunch) and €32 (dinner). // D.C.